As Fashion Week turns 50 in Paris, creative directors continue to push boundaries with new collections while paying homage to their iconic legacies.
Dior, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, highlighted classic silhouettes with contemporary sportswear—in a nod to the Olympics, which was a surprise to say the least. The black and white palette, with touches of red and dark blue, emphasized leather, tailored coats, and fringe details. Chiuri aimed to “recapitulate the meaning of the garment,” inviting models to embody the essence of the designs, quite literally—including a reinterpretation of the Amazone dress made by Christian Dior himself in 1951. The show opened with an Amazonian archer, artist SAGG Napoli, who fired an arrow to symbolize the connection between body and mind, reflecting the collection’s celebration of modern femininity.
Anthony Vaccarello’s collection for Saint Laurent featured a variety of hyper-tailored suits in earthy tones, like gray, beige, and brown—transitioning to dresses and skirts in vibrant colors like hot pink and fuchsia mid-show. The show captured the spirit of Yves personal look: boxy suits and thick-framed glasses—later elevating these basics by adding sleek silhouettes, draping, and shoulder pads. Vaccarello mentioned that he was inspired by a 2000s interview with Saint Laurent, in which the designer described his ideal woman as “himself.”
Daniel Roseberry’s show for Sciaparelli was, as always, bold. Inspired by what he calls “future vintage,” the collection featured corsets with gold accents amid sheer and metallic textures, zebra-like stripes, and floral embroidery all wrapped in oversized jackets on the runway. These designs balanced nostalgia with modern trends like chrome. Roseberry’s intent was clear: to create pieces not just for today but future generations too, flirting with dramatic silhouettes and timeless details to ensure each look would be an addition to wardrobes everywhere.
J.W. Anderson’s Loewe collection offered a unique contrast between femininity and comfort. Floral prints paired with structured silhouettes built off his last autumn-winter show, though the addition of models clad in asymmetrical hoop skirts, flowing fabrics, and even sneakers, balanced natural elegance with dynamic silhouettes. Anderson aimed to strip away excess, and return to form, resulting in an imaginative collection that built on the house’s storied legacy.
Christian Louboutin, in collaboration with American art director, David LaChapelle, delivered a spectacular synchronized swimming performance. The debut of the “Miss Z Pump” was a hit, with swimmers showcasing the iconic red-bottomed heels—in the pool no less. LaChapelle drew inspiration from mid-century water ballets, setting fast-paced choreography by Blanca Li to cinematic music, evoking ‘50s Hollywood glamor. The event concluded with Louboutin himself diving into the pool, wearing red-bottomed sneakers, fusing performance art and high fashion.
Julien Dossena’s collection for Rabanne played with stripes, florals, and metallics. The show presented long dresses with cutouts alongside more structured, boxy, asymmetrical silhouettes, emphasizing a boundless interpretation of traditional masculine and feminine styles. Dossena introduced the Artisan Editions, showcasing collaborations that elevate the brand’s craftsmanship, like their many partnerships with ateliers known for creating the signature Paco Rabanne metallic mesh, as well as collaborations with jewelry artisans to produce couture-level accessories. Dossena decided to show The Handcrafted 1969 Golden Bag, the most expensive of its kind. This bag was created shortly after Paco Rabanne became Paco Rabanne, accessorizing the most expensive dress in the world, one he made out of gold and diamonds for French fashion icon Francois Hardy. The collection ultimately leaned into the history and rise of Paco Rabanne by exploring the duality between material and style, leaving a lasting impression.
Designer Alessandro Michele, formerly of Gucci, made his Valentino debut after taking over from Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had been with the brand for 25 years. Michele’s collection fused elements of Marie Antoinette’s grandeur with elements of 1920s flappers.
The runway was an explosion of polka dots—ranging from tiny, irregularly placed ones to larger, grid-like patterns. The color palette was equally varied, featuring black, white, purple, red, cobalt blue, fuchsia, army green, pale yellow, and even pastel hues. Cream tones and floral motifs reminiscent of Persian rug patterns added richness to the designs. Accessories took center stage with Derby-style hats adorned with oversized feathers or flowers, alongside fitted flapper-like headpieces.
Michele’s collection featured a mix of tailored outfits with ruffled details, creating a sense of movement with sequins, sheer fabrics, and metallic accents. The intricate bags stood out, showcasing patchwork, studs, and a mix of different colored leathers and suedes. Bows, lace, feathers, and fur could also be seen throughout. Michele sought to explore beauty as a powerful, healing force, encouraging reflection on its role in an ever-changing world.
With Chanel currently lacking a creative director following Virginie Viard’s departure in June, the in-house design team stepped in to present a collection that began with a classic Chanel aesthetic and gradually evolved into something more modern and daring. The models walked through an elaborate birdcage installation, which set the tone for the show. The show began with the Classic Chanel tweed matching set, but as the show progressed, feathers, ruffles, and sheer fabrics modernized the timeless tweed looks. Standout elements included maxi sheer skirts layered under tweed minis and chic shawls. Pleated skirts, pops of color, and playful multi-colored tweeds evoked images of birds, in line with the set design.
The collection’s concept was drawn from a quote by Gabrielle Chanel herself: “People have always wanted to put me in cages… I never wanted any other than the one I would build myself.”
Gabriela Hearst, who left Chloé in 2023, made her mark with the debut of her own label.
Her collection embraced a mix of sheer knit fabrics and more structured, woven cotton materials, featuring shades of black, white, beige, maroon, and cerulean blue. Leather played a key role, with black and caramel tones seen in patchwork pieces and capes inspired by the Roman goddess Diana. Fringe details and cowboy boots added an earthy edge, while a moire fabric that looked almost wet provided a futuristic contrast. Sheer metallic clothing that unraveled intentionally added to the collection’s raw yet refined aesthetic. Hearst’s vision was deeply philosophical—her show notes referenced various goddesses, symbolizing a spiritual and prayerful invocation. It was a powerful and introspective debut for her brand.
This year’s ANDAM Fashion Award winners were Ellen Hodakova Larsson, Michael Stewart, and Duran Lantink, recognizing their distinct contributions to the fashion world. Hodakova is known for deconstructing and reclaiming secondhand garments and vintage accessories, incorporating deadstock fabrics from brands like Gucci. Michael Stewart focuses on modern evening-wear, pushing boundaries with elegant designs. Duran Lantink showcased avant-garde silhouettes, with some intriguing beachwear pieces featuring irregular tubing and padding, continuing his reputation for experimental designs (pictured to the right).
The prestigious LVMH Prize was awarded to Christopher Esber, Emeric Tchatchouna, and Pièces Uniques. Christopher Esber’s collection explored volume, movement, and dualities like past versus present. Tchatchouna, the creative director of 3.Paradis, designs sports-inspired streetwear, offering a fresh and contemporary take on urban style. Pièces Uniques, a Parisian menswear brand, is inspired by a mix of streetwear, cinema, anime, design, architecture, and video games.
Paris Fashion Week’s 50th anniversary was a celebration of both innovation and heritage, with designers blending bold experimentation with timeless elegance. From Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino to Chanels’ successful show without a creative director, each collection offered a unique exploration of beauty, identity, and craftsmanship, leaving a lasting mark on the runway and fashion trends.